Buying Quality Jewelry, Part 4 - Precious Metals

About 160 years ago, one simple word sent over abest-known; it's any 925 fine alloy (92.5 percent silver
quarter-million people on a 2,000-mile trek over dirt7.5 percent base metal)
roads with no bridges, no hotels, not even a single fast- Alpaca Mexico is generally around 900 fine
food restaurant! The word?- Jewelry silver is a specific 800 fine alloy--800 silver
"GOLD!"200 copper
Since man first discovered shiny rocks, preciousSilver's one drawback is tarnish, but a new alloy,
metals have captured the imagination of almost everyPlatifina (Spanish for "fine silver") is 925 silver 10
human being and jewelry has been a popular way toplatinum 65 [oh, sorry, trade secret!]; it both durable and
win a spouse, reward a friend or just show off yourtarnish resistant. Platifina jewelry is available exclusively
wealth and good taste. Very few of us will own morethrough
than a coin or two, but most of us will, at some point,A warning--some silver isn't silver at all. "Nickel silver"
buy or receive jewelry in precious metals.(also "German silver" or "alpaca silver") is an alloy of
To prevent misrepresentation or fraud, the US jewelrycopper-nickel-zinc alloy (sometimes mixed with other,
industry is carefully regulated. Precious metals actuallytoxic, metals so its use is now restricted). It has the
has a legal definition: Precious metals are gold, silverlook of silver and was a low-priced substitute used
and platinum (or other "platinum group metals"--iridium,mostly as base for silver-plating. These days, most
palladium, ruthenium, rhodium and osmium--but don'tnickel silver is used in nickels (5-cent coins are 750
expect to see them at the wedding ring counter). Allcopper 250 nickel).
others are commonly known as base metals orPlatinum
industrial metals.Platinum is another white metal. Brought to Europe by
Precious refers only to their use in jewelry; many basethe Spanish Conquistadors, platinum jewelry was rare
metals are extremely valuable--copper has been useduntil the 19th Century and platinum only gained
in coins for millennia and rhenium costs nearly ten timesrecognition as a monetary metal in the 1980s, but has
as much as gold. Likewise, precious metals havebecome as popular among collectors and investors as
industrial applications. Only two-thirds of gold and lessit is among prospective grooms. Its composition is
that forty percent of silver become jewelry or coins.highly restricted:
The rest goes to electronics, photography, medicine or- Platinum at least 950 fine (sometimes abbreviated
elsewhere.950Pt) may be sold as platinum
The other main point of US regulations is- Any alloy from 850 fine (850Pt) to 949 fine must be
purity--always an important question when buyingmarked and sold as platinum alloy
precious metal. In jewelry terms, purity is generally- Below 850 fine, the alloy cannot legally be sold in the
described in fineness or parts per thousand. TheUS as platinum
standard is 999 fine, meaning 99.9-percent pure. AlloysPlatinum jewelry costs more than gold because,
are sometimes abbreviated by parts: "900 gold 50compared to 22k, 18k or 14k gold, buyers get more
copper 50 nickel" or something similar.precious metal with platinum jewelry. It could also be
Part of the precious metal mystique is tradition--silvercalled a "new and improved white gold"--it is naturally
and gold have been valued since ancient times. Theywhite and stays that way (white gold does not). It is
are rare, but common enough to form a worldwidedenser, more durable, holds gemstones more securely
standard. They are workable, rust-free and they areand is hypoallergenic. More rare than gold, few people
one of the blings in bling-bling (the other being gems).will own anything other than a wedding set. Perhaps
The platinum group is a recent addition. Likewise, somemost important, platinum will not wear away; the ring,
industrial metals have now found their way intobracelet or necklace you buy today will be the same
bracelets, earrings, necklaces and rings because theyon your golden jubilee. (Perhaps we should change that
have advantages over precious metals.to the platinum anniversary!)
Types of precious metalsIndustrial metals
GoldCertain base metals are becoming more popular in
Gold has a magic all its own and rare is the personjewelry as their durability is recognized as a symbol of
who does not react when hearing that word. Sincestrength and permanence:
man's earliest records, gold coins and gold jewelry- Titanium is widely used in--and is actually
have been the ultimate mark of wealth. Gold's purity isindispensable to--the aerospace industry; about a
formally measured in fineness, but jewelers still use thedozen alloys are in common use today
traditional karat (abbreviated k or kt):- Tungsten-carbide--a compound of tungsten and
- 24k gold is pure gold (1000 fine)--too soft for jewelrycarbon--forms super-dense alloys in products ranging
but excellent for bribery, smuggling and similarfrom golf clubs to weapons
enterprises- Stainless steel is an iron-carbon alloy known for
- 22k gold (916 fine) is the purest alloy commonly soldcenturies; modern steels number in the hundreds
- 18k gold (750 fine) has a deep, rich colorNeither titanium rings nor tungsten-carbide rings will
- 14k gold (585 fine) is stronger than 18k and makestarnish. Titanium is a little darker than silver, tungsten
more durable jewelrydarker than titanium. They are particularly suited to
- 10k gold (416 fine) is the legal minimum; lesser alloysactive individuals. [If an activity might damage the
may be marketed as gold tone but not as goldjewelry, you don't want to find out what it could do to
Gold is naturally yellow, its shade varying with impuritiesyour hand!] For those with metal allergies, titanium is
or alloys. White gold is alloyed with nickel, platinum,excellent; so good, it's used in artificial hips. Stainless
iridium, palladium or plated with rhodium. Other alloyssteel jewelry's great advantage is as a low-cost
produce a variety of colors.alternative. It will not bend or break under normal usage,
Gold filled is not what it sounds like; it isn't somethingit doesn't tarnish and is hypoallergenic.
filled with gold, it's gold filled with something, usuallyRegardless of when or why you choose precious
brass or silver. Thicker than gold-plated, it must be atmetal jewelry, get what suits you best for by knowing
least 5 percent gold by weight.what to look for.
SilverFor more information:
Silver is the most plentiful and the most widely usedAll jewelry sold in the US must be clearly described
precious metal. Until the 19th Century, it was the moneyaccording to regulations set by the Federal Trade
standard in most countries and almost every 21stCommission (
Century home has silver jewelry, plated candlesticks,The Jewelry Information Center ( strives to be the
photographic film, coins, etc. Like gold, silver must besource for consumer information on fine jewelry and
alloyed for hardness:watches.
- Sterling silver (often just called sterling) is the(C)2007 Overstock.com--All Rights Reserved.