Jewelry Making Metals - Information and Techniques

Jewelry making metals are an important part of thePlatifina: Introduced in 2005, platifina is a new sterling
jewelry artist studio. The most commonly used metalssilver alloy comprised of 92.5 percent silver, 1 percent
are probably silver and gold, however there is aplatinum and 6.5 percent other metals (that's a trade
variety of jewelry making metals that give the jewelrysecret). This new alloy creates a metal that is brighter
artist flexibility when they are designing and creatingin color than either silver or pure platinum and is
their pieces.guaranteed tarnish-resistant, yet platifina jewelry is
With today's scientific and technological advances youmuch more affordable than platinum jewelry.
can integrate many other alloys into your work.Karatium: Alloys are a new family of alloys containing
Factors to Consider When Choosing the Metals Youa percentage of gold and have been formulated in
Want to Work Withresponse to industry demand for less expensive
- Cost is probably the number one factor.metals. They are available in Yellow which contains
- What style of jewelry you design. If you are mostly20% gold, Pink and White options which contain 10%
attracted to silver, you will gravitate towardsgold as well as a sterling silver alloy which contains
incorporating silver in your work. There is also the2.5% gold. Although Karatium alloys polish to a high
possibility of mixing metals to give definition and textureluster much like traditional karat gold alloys, they can be
to a piece of jewelry. Using bi-metals were a layer ofpriced considerably less than 10kt gold and are an
gold is fused into sterling silver, can also save moneyattractive alternative to gold filled products since they
and accomplish the quality you are looking for.are a true "Alloy" and not a clad product with a base
- Different metals required the use of alternativemetal layer making up the majority of your jewelry.
equipment. You will need to factor in the amount ofKaratium alloys also have the advantage over gold
money you have to invest in tools and equipments tofilled that the gold layer will never wear off. Karatium
accomplish the type of jewelry designs you want toalloys are formulated to work well for all jewelry
createapplications and can be cast, formed and fabricated
Metals have a variety of alloys that when addedjust like karat gold alloys. All Karatium metal jewelry
together provide the unique properties of each one.supplies have been formulated for optimum tarnish
Silver Alloys: Silver, has the highest thermalresistance. These qualities make Karatium a jewelry
conductivity.making material to investigate and experiment with.
• Fine-Silver is about 99.9% pure. In this form it is aStainless Steel: Has recently gained in popularity as a
lustrous and soft.jewelry making material, Stainless steel was developed
• Sterling-Silver is an alloy containing 92.5% byin the 19th Century and is a combination of iron-carbon
weight of silver and 7.5% by weight of otheralloy. It has been used in tools, structures and
components, usually copper.manufacturing. Jewelry artists have recently started
• Argentium Silver is a tarnish resistant silver andusing it because its resistance to Its attractive grey
firescale free. It is perfectly malleable once annealed,color, strength and low cost, has made stainless steel
and is almost twice as hard as traditional sterling silver.a good alternative metal for making jewelry.
Most high quality silver items are stamped with aTitanium: Titanium is probably the strongest available. It
"fineness" or "quality" mark. This mark designates theis an industrial metal that has been recently introduce
content of the jewelry, and under federal law, must beinto the jewelry industry. Titanium has an attractive
accompanied by a maker's mark or registeredgray tone and gives jewelry a modern look. It is
trademark. The most important thing is that silver iscorrosion, tarnish and discoloration resistant. Titanium
more affordable than gold and makes wonderfulcan be fabricated into different designs and has
jewelry!become a great alternative for wedding and
Pure Gold: is 24 Karats, which is the reason for theengagement rings.
high price on jewelry made with 24K.Tungsten: Also called wolfram, is formed from super
The solution to making gold consumer-friendly is to mixdense alloys and is used in products ranging from golf
it with another material, creating an alloy that results inclub heads to weapons. This metal is as strong as
a stronger and frequently less-expensive piece.steel and about twice the weight, making this metal
Carats (also written as karats and abbreviated as kt)almost wear proof and a perfect alternative for
are the measure of the ratio of gold to other metalsjewelry making.
contained within the alloy. The more gold an alloyPalladium: Is a lustrous silvery white jewelry making
contains, the higher the caratage is.material used in electronics, jewelry, and certain other
Gold alloys typically span a range from 8 to 18 carats.industries. Palladium is considered to be a precious
An 8 carat alloy means that the gold content is 1/3 andmetal. With its bright color and durable nature is the
an 18 carat piece is 75% gold. Other commonperfect metal to use for wedding jewelry which is
caratages of gold jewelry alloys are 10 kt and 14 kt.expected to keep its appearance for decades.
• Gold Overlay or Bi-Metal: Gold overlay is anBronze: An early copper alloy; so early, in fact, that an
application of gold on a base metal piece. Thisentire era - the Bronze Age - was named for it.
technique gives an item the expensive look of gold forBronze was used for making bracelets, ankles, and
a fraction of the price. A piece of gold overlay jewelryearrings, and beaded necklaces. Bronze is gaining in
is always stamped indicating the process and thepopularity because of its color and the easiness to
gold's karat quality.create interesting textures.
• Gold Plate: This technique chemically bonds a layerBrass: Combine copper with zinc and you see the
of gold to a base metal using electrolysis. It is createdgolden luster of brass. Brass is a malleable, and has a
when the base metal is coated with layer of gold withhigh-luster, that gives it the appearance of gold. Bronze
at least 10 karats.was used primarily to create functional items such as
• Gold Filled: This is the process in which a metal isdoor knobs and picture frames. Brass has now gained
layered with at least 10-karat gold by using heat andin popularity as a metal amongst jewelry designers
pressure. In order for jewelry to be "gold filled," the goldSome of the metals, such as, bronze, copper and silver
content must compose at least 1/20th of the item'scan be etched by using a prepared solution of ferric
total weight.chloride which also contains hydrochloric acid. This
• Gold over Silver: This is a gold overlay using aprocess allows you to create unique textures and
silver base metal. Jewelry made with Silver covereddesigns. Make sure you follow instructions when
with a layer of yellow gold is considered to be theetching any of these three metals and that you
most luxurious of the bi-metals. You can use this metaldispose of the solution properly.
with confidence because it is durable and to givesAlpaca (Alpacca): Not to be confused with the animal,
jewelry a more expensive rich look.alpaca is a relatively new metal jewelry making supply,
Copper: is a great alternative to the skyrocketingpredominantly made of copper alloyed with nickel, zinc,
prices in the precious metal market. Many jewelryand tin. The reduced expense of alpaca makes it a
artists and designers have discovered Copper asnatural jewelry making material substitute for silver in
exciting alternative. Copper jewelry making can befashion jewelry.
very versatile, not only because of the cost, but alsoPewter: As copper alloyed with tin became bronze, tin
because Copper is one of the easiest metal to workalloyed with copper and lead resulted in pewter.
with. Copper is also very pliable and thus easy to cut,Pewter was mostly used in the manufacturing of
form and fold. Copper jewelry making is easier thantableware as well as being a base metal often used
ever because of the accessibility of the metal. Copperfor rings and pendants. When polished to a high luster,
can be found at jewelry supply and metal supplypewter approaches the elegant sheen of fine silver.
stores. Like many of the other metals, Copper can beNow that you are familiar with the different types of
purchased in many forms: Wire, sheet, tube, chain,jewelry making metals, you can begin to enhance you
beads and jewelry components.designs.